Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon)

While I had never heard of Copper Canyon prior to cruising in Mexico it is a definite must see! I had the opportunity to travel to Copper Canyon with my friends Doug and Marcy (Charm). Copper Canyon is approximately 250 miles south of the United States border and approximately 300 miles north of Mazatlan. It is a group of 6 different canyons in the Sierra Madre mountains. It is larger and deeper than the Grand Canyon in the United States. It took over 60 million years of geological formation. There are 6 rivers throughout the canyons which all eventually drain into the Sea of Cortez.

As we did not know much about where we were going we booked a tour through RailsNW (www.railsnw.com). which was very helpful. We left Mazatlan Monday(Nov. 30) via bus to Los Mochis. The scenery was predominately agricultural as we drove north. Upon arriving at Los Mochis we were picked up by a driver who drove us to El Fuerte, about 1 1/2 hours east.

El Fuerte (the fort) was founded in 1564. It is known as the legendary birthplace of Zorro. It was a quaint town. We stayed at the El Fuerte Hotel (www.hotelfuerte.com.mx) which was previously a hacienda. It is 350 years old. While it was reported to have ghosts walking the walkways I did not see any. (Thank goodness!) The decor was primarily Mexican art theme with open courtyards. It is beautiful.



The next day a driver took us to the train station at El Fuerte. The train is known as "El Chepe". The rail line travels from Los Mochis to Chihuahua City, a distance of 400 miles. It took over 100 years to build the railway. The seats were very comfortable, and the dining car had very good food. Walking while the train was underway was almost worse than walking under sail.



Upon departing from El Fuerte we began to climb. We traveled along a river, and began to see more mountains and cliffs. There were beautiful pink trees along the way. Our first departure from the train was at Bahuichivo about 4 hours from El Fuerte. We had a driver, Hugo, who picked us up and drove us over dirt, bumpy roads about 10 miles to the town of Cerocahui. We stayed at the Paraiso del Oso Hotel (www.mexicohorse.com). It had a large living area and dining area decorated in cowboy motif. Our rooms were heated by a wood stove. We definitely had to keep it going all the time as it has become very cold. It almost felt like we were camping. The hotel was surrounded by large rock formations. We only had 1 other group of 3 staying at this hotel. We had delicious family style meals.


Cerocahui has a population of 3000 and was founded in 1680. Of interest, the town has only had electricity for 7 years. We toured the town, the church, and the local girls school. We then had our first great view of one of the canyons, Cerro del Gallego. We were at an elevation of about 7500 feet. We could see the town of Urique at the bottom of the canyon. I also went on a hike through pine forests, and rivers to see the Cerocahui waterfall.

The following day we returned to the train station to board to Creel. The train stays only about 1-2 minutes at the train stops so you have to be ready to board quickly and get off quickly. It was about a 3 hour train ride. Creel is at an elevation of 7,735 feet. It is cold, below 32 degrees. We were not prepared for the cold. I had sandles, no socks. Marcy had no long pants and none of us had jackets. We stayed in cabins at Creel, Creel Mountain Lodge (www.vmcoppercanyon.com). While nice, they were cold. Marcy, Doug and I had to share the wall furnace between our rooms. In the morning all the water pipes were frozen, so no showers or flushing toilets.

Creel has many natural rock formations. We saw rock formations called Los Hongos (the Mushroom), Las Ramas (the Frog) that was originated by wind and water erosions.





Copper Canyon has been home to the Tarahumara Indians for hundreds of years. Tarahumara comes from the word Raramuri, meaning foot runners. The Tarahumara women are brightly clothed as well as the children. The Tarahumara were known to have their homes in the caves of the cliffs. While a small percentage still live in caves others have begun to make small dwellings on land. We had an opportunity to visit a few of the cliff homes. The Tarahumara women are known for their basket making skills.





From Creel we took the train to Posada Barrancas where we stayed at Hotel Mansion Tarahumara (www.mansiontarahumara.com.mx) on the cliffs of the rim of the canyons. The hotel was decorated in a blend of Indian and Mexican motif. We were able to take a walking tour along the rims of the canyon. The following day we took a tour viewing the 3 canyons, Urique, Copper, and Tararecua. Pictures can not tell the expanse or the depth one sees visually.


The following day we boarded the train for an 8 hour run back to Los Mochis where we stayed the night. The following day we took a bus back to Mazatlan. It was a wonderful experience viewing the canyons, seeing and observing the Tarahumara Indians, enjoying our different lodgings, and sharing it with good friends.

While I was enjoying my travels, Wally visited his daughters in the States where he also had a good time. He has returned with Angel.

We leave tomorrow for La Cruz. We are excited for our next experiences.

Mazatlan - November 27, 2009

We enjoyed our second Thanksgiving in Mazatlan with 120 other cruisers. It was a catered event, so none of the usual cooking in the kitchen all day for the holiday. However, I did make a Pumpkin Pie, for us to enjoy. We had music, dancing, good food, and good company.

I had the opportunity to watch the celebration of Mexican Revolution Day (November 20). It is the celebration of the war between the haves and the have not between 1910-1920. The hero of this was Pancho Villa, who was a have not. It is a big holiday celebrated with a parade with all the schools in Mazatlan participating. The parade lasted over 21/2 hours with marching bands, gymnastics, soccer teams, floats, horses, cheer leading groups, fire departments and the Navy. It was so enjoyable to see all of the different schools. I think Doug and Marcy(Charm) and I were the only gringos in attendance. The crowd was so kind to us pointing for us to look at different things.












We toured the local Pacifico Brewery with a group of cruisers. This brewery is the oldest in Mexico. The interesting thing is the alcohol content of Mexico Pacifico beer is 4.5% while in the US alcohol has to be 3.2%. If Pacifico ships to the states the alcohol content must be adjusted. We were able to observe the cooking of the cereal, the fermentation, the bottling, and then the tasting room. The best thing of the tasting room were the incredible 360 degree views of Mazatlan.





We also have weekly dinghy raft ups in the marina. We all decide where we are going and then hook all of our dinghys together while we float around and share appetizers and good conversations.



We visited Stone Island today, which is actually a peninsula. While just a short distance from Mazatlan you felt miles away. The beaches were very long and flat with palapa restaurants along the beach. Very relaxing.
Our home.

Mazatlan - November 19, 2009

We crossed the Sea of Cortez with flat seas. We made it to Mazatlan in 26 hours. Coming back into the harbor felt like we had come home. We unloaded all of our supplies from John and Rosie's boat, Serena Ray, and began the job of putting our boat, Andanzas, back together for another cruising season. Andanzas survived the summer months with no problems. It was hot hard work putting canvas back up, putting the sails back on, cleaning the boat, etc., etc.

Mazatlan is a unique cruising community. Many of the cruisers here consider this their home port and have been here for many seasons. There are so many social activities one can participate in. We have been here for 10 days and I think tonight was the first time I cooked dinner at home. It is great to see all of our friends.


We have had fun touring John and Rosie over "Old Town Mazatlan". Sadly John and Rosie have headed south, although we plan to catch up with them later. We attended the local baseball team, Venados, game.




In addition to all of our social activities I have been enjoying water activities with my friends. I kayak most mornings, ride our new bikes in the evening, have learned to paddle board and have gone boogie boarding for the first time. Wally participates as my lifeguard.

Cabo San Lucas - November 6, 2009

We have arrived in Cabo. We have traveled approximately 750 miles by sea from San Diego. We began with weather at 48 degrees in the morning to currently low 70's, with daytime temperature in the 70's to currently in the 80-90's, to water temperature of 63 degrees to currently 82 degrees.

Friday, October 30 we left Ensenada with a beautiful sunrise. The seas were 3-4 feet with wind about 10 knots. We arrived at our anchorage, Cabo Colonet, 65 miles SE of Ensenada at 3:30 p.m. The anchorage is noted by its sheer cliffs(300-400 feet) and flat plateaus. We enjoyed the evening by sitting on the deck, gourmet bar-b-q, and an evening of Mexican Train.

Saturday, October 31, we left Cabo Colonet at 5:15 a.m., heading towards Punta Baja. In the afternnoon it was decided that the anchorage was going to be to rolly and we needed to head to Turtle Bay. This made our first overnight. It is so much easier doing an overnight with 4 people to share watch as opposed to 2 people. Seas were 2-3 feet and winds 5-9 knots. The seas have become progressively calmer and the weather warmer.


We arrived at Turtle Bay on Sunday at 3:30 p.m., 225 miles south of Colonet. Turtle Bay is half way along the Baja Peninsula. It is the best all weather bay between Ensenada and Magdalena Bay. The village has less that 1000 people. They are primarily fishermen.

The coastline has been very desolate, desert like, with colors of different browns set against the blue ocean. While we did come down the coast last year on our own boat we were further off shore and did not see much of the coastline.

We left Turtle Bay Monday for Bahia Asuncion, 50 miles SE of Turtle Bay, another small village. It was a very calm anchorage. On Tuesday we left Asuncion at sunrise heading to Magdalena Bay, 204 miles south. The seas were 1-2 feet and 7-8 knots of wind. We anchored at Belcher's Point inside Mag Bay. The anchorage had strong currents. We noticed many old buildings along Belcher's Point, an old phosphorus plant, and an old whaling station. The coastline has been greener due to the recent Hurricane Rick.



We have fished along the way catching Yellow Fin Tuna and Dorado. I have learned that it is more humane to use vodka killing fish as opposed to using a bat.

We left Belcher's Point on Thursday morning heading to Cabo San Lucas, 160 miles, arriving Friday morning. Cabo is a prime tourist attraction. We went ashore for the first time in a week having lunch ashore. We will leave for Mazatlan in the morning and arrive sometime Sunday afternoon.


We have had beautiful full moon rises, sun rises, and sunsets. We have had great weather. We have had a wonderful time sharing this experience with John and Rosie. We have enjoyed great food, good fun with games, and lots of laughter. We have enjoyed the peace that the sea and the sun provides. We value the freedom of being on our own schedules.

I believe I am a convert to the "Dark Side", Wally is still pending........